May 14, 2012 - Chartres and Paris

Cafe in Chartres

After such an eventful day yesterday, it is hard to imagine there is still so much more to see and do on the tour!

Outside Chartres Cathredral

Anneliese Payne, faculty, enjoying the sunshine

We started the day by heading to Chartres, a beautiful city, with a quaint "old" downtown centered around Chartres Cathedral. We were scheduled to sing as part of a mass held down in the crypt, one of numerous chapels placed around the part of the cathedral which remains from the 8th century. While the cathedral has been rebuilt numerous times due to fires, etc. (the latest "incarnation" of the building being from around the 12th century), it still contains some of the oldest stained glass in Europe. The tunic/veil which was believed to be worn by the Virgin Mary is housed in Chartres Cathedral (it never burned and remained unscathed), but that was not available for us to view. The labryinth there is the one on which the SPs (U.S.) and Hawthorne Park labryinths are modeled.

Chartres Cathedral-front

Chartres Cathedral - side

 

Unfortunately, there was confusion in the tour company's schedule for the start time, so we arrived late to the mass. The mass was interesting, with several in attendance, and rather dimly lit, making it all seem even more mystical! Aspects of paintings on the walls could still be viewed. Following the mass, we were able to perform for the Alum Tour participants, and Michael Boswell gave them the unusual opportunity to choose which songs they would like to hear from the choir. "Steal Away" was a request from Sr. Denise Wilkinson (General Superior of the SPs in U.S.), and later "La Providence". In addition, the choir sang "Viderunt Omnes" (written originally for Notre Dame Cathedral-Paris) and "Medieval Gloria" which was well-suited to the space in which we were standing. Someone on the alum tour said he came down because he had heard the voices of the choir all the way in the gift shop upstairs.

Singing in the Crypt/Catacombs of Chartres

One of many stained glass windows in Chartres

Following lunch, we had a tour through (and around) Chartres Cathedral with our Tour Guide Extraordinaire, Etienne. He described many of the Stained Glass windows, including the Rose windows. We learned that you "read" stained glass window stories by starting at the lower left hand corner and moving up. Fascinating! He described the many of many of the entrance carvings, we viewed the Labryinth, and many other aspects of this awesome structure. The colors and beauty of the glass is difficult to describe and no camera can do them justice. We all had a little time to visit some shops (or in the case of some, to have some "glace", or ice cream) before heading back on to the bus. 

Rose Window

Above main entrance

 "The good life" -  Annette Gigliotti-Wieg

candles lit in Chartres Cathredral

Then, we were off to Paris!

The quick bus trip through main parts of Paris were overwhelming as Etienne spouted so much historical information in such a short time. We are in awe of his vast knowledge base including art history, architecture, history (dates, people, etc.) and details. We went right near the Eiffel Tower, Champs-Elysees, the Rodin Museum, and much more. We even drove near the square where so many were guillotined, including Marie Antoinette. We checked into our hotel and were left on our own to find dinner in the very active city. Even now the sounds of the city are wafting in the window. Many of us even enjoyed a cafe-au-lait or a cappuccino after dinner, and yet, we'll likely all sleep soundly as we prepare for a full day tomorrow.

Dominique, Bus Driver "Fantastique"!

Bon Soir!

May 13, 2012 - The Sisters of Providence - France!

There truly are no words which can convey the meaning of today---the heartfelt expressions and connections made with the Sisters of Providence in Ruille-sur-Loir, France, are indescribable.

Statue at Mother House in France

Sisters of Providence - France

lights reflected on floor through stained glass of Holy Family Church

Arch of Holy Family Church

Stained glass depicting SP history

We arrived at Ruille-Sur-Loir in the morning to sing as part of the morning mass in the large Church of the Holy Family (built after Saint Mother Guerin's time) and the Sisters of Providence chanted and sang responses throughout the service. President Dottie King did a reading as well. Following the mass, we were taken on a tour of the Holy Family Chapel, which is where Saint Mother Guerin said farewell, cried as she looked out over the gardens, and left for the United States. To stand there, looking at the chapel and then out the door to the very gardens still being tended today, felt like such a privilege.

View toward gardens from Holy Family Chapel

Holy Family Chapel where Mother Guerin left for U.S. 

We then went to lunch, served by the Sisters and it was a 6 course meal, if you count the wonderful coffee at the end! The menu included 1) mixed vegetable salad with kiwi (from their gardens)--very good! 2) small potatoes with white legumes 3) chicken and pork with mushrooms 4) variety of cheeses (the brie was incredible!) and fresh lettuce from their gardens 5) dessert of apple tarts and eclairs (caramel and chocolate, respectively), and finally 6) coffee! The meal was served with either water or a red Bordeaux wine. Truly the best meal of our trip so far...and served with great care and love. We were all touched, too, when Sister Martine (General Superior of French order) led the sung blessing, followed by Sister Henri Dominique leading a song written by a fellow Sister. Very touching. At the end of lunch, the students passed out small gifts from the SPs in the U.S. to the SPs in France.

Following lunch, Sister Henri-Dominique took us to the church dedicated to Saint Peter and Saint Paul, but the SPs consider it the Church of Father Dujane (who used his own money to restore the church, which had been nearly decimated during the French Revolution. He then went on to begin the order of the Sisters of Providence). This church is where Sister Guerin took her vows. The students began an impromptu singing of The Ring Song, as they were overwhelmed with feeling and singing is how they needed to express the history, the compassion, and the generosity of spirit which were felt in that church.

Where Mother Guerin took her vows

We headed back to rehearse in the Holy Family Chapel and while we kept shutting the doors leading to the larger church, they would not stay closed! We had hoped to sing there, but the crowd was too large to fit in the smaller space, so the concert was held back in the larger Church of the Holy Family. Most of the French Sisters of Providence sat in the front rows and throughout the concert, many held their hands to their hearts, others smiled, and all applauded with enthusiasm. Before "La Providence" was sung, Michael Boswell asked Sister Martine to translate his words....among them were "We are honored to be here to sing for you....we understand that without you, we would not be here..." The SPs were very moved and following the concert they spoke excitedly in French (many speak little to no English) with phrases like "Tres Beau!" (very beautiful). During one conversation with Sharon R. Boyle (music therapy faculty member on tour, singing with the choir), two SPs were speaking quickly and she said, "Je ne comprends pas" (I don't understand) and they tried again. Again, she apologetically smiled, shook her head and said, "Je ne comprends pas....mais, la musique!" (but, the music!). The nodded, threw their hands in the air and said, "Oui! La Musique!" It is true that "Where words fail, music speaks" (--author unknown)!

window from Holy Family Chapel

There was a small reception with the Sisters following the concert with coffee and small desserts. Sister Martine was asked if any SMWC students have ever come to visit the SPs in France and to her recollection, this has never happened. This may explain the numerous newspaper articles written about the choir and Michael Boswell in both Etables-sur-Mer and Ruille-sur-Loir.

We then all piled into the bus to visit Le Petit Providence (Little Providence), the original structure where the SPs started. It was in an idyllic setting, with wild flowers surrounding the house and throughout the fields. We all took time to pick flowers, take pictures inside the little chapel, and explore the structure. We then took group pictures: 1) Madrigal students and Michael Boswell 2) Choir with two faculty and an alum who has joined the choir for the tour 3) the entire Choir Tour group and 4) all the mothers and daughters on the trip as part of Mother's Day. We dropped the Sisters back at the Mother House and we waved goodbye as they stood on the road...and Sister Martine waved her white scarf in a farewell. It was bittersweet.

The entire Choir Tour group at Le Petit Providence (Little Providence)

Le Petit Providence chapel

Mothers and Daughters on Mother's Day

Madrigal students and Michael Boswell, Director

Choir including three guests (2 faculty; 1 alum)

We headed through Tours, France for a quick bus tour (Beautiful city, with historical buildings dating back to the 4th century) and then on to nearby Saint-Pierre-des-Corps for our dinner and evening at the hotel.

Reflecting back on the day, the meaning of all we have experienced so far is again hard to describe, or even process. We are eternally grateful to the Sisters of Providence in Ruille-sur-Loir for their generosity and warm welcome. Walking the halls and gardens of this community it felt like centuries were overlaid with today...it was easy to imagine Sisters of Mother Guerin's time walking the halls in habits and tending to the flowers, and it also felt like "home"---our Woods home. We have come full circle--and on Mother's Day of all days.

May 12, 2012

It was an early morning for the group as we had a wake up call at 6:30 a.m. Following breakfast, we checked out of our hotel in Etables-Sur-Mer and headed for the Loire Valley. We passed Rennes, where Mother Guerin was a teacher for many years. We did stop in Angers (for lunch: most opting for the fastest option at a fast food place. The "Magic Box" was the choice of our youngest traveler, who is 6), Saumur and eventually passed by Amboise (where Leonardo DaVinci stayed for three years from 1516-1519). We learned that the Loire River is the longest in France and that Chinon is where Joan of Arc met Charles II.

We arrived at Chateau D'Usee after passing the first nuclear plant in France--a strange proximity to one another! The Chateau D'Usee is also commonly referred to as the "Sleeping Beauty Castle". It is supposed to be what inspired the famed story. In the Chateau, there were scenes staged in rooms at the top floors related to the story, with even Maleficent making an appearance. After viewing the Chateau and the nearby chapel, we were able to head to the caves beneath the vineyard on the property for a brief wine tasting of the local French wine. After a quick break, it was off to the next Chateau (of which there are many!).

Chateau D'Usee

Funny moment at Chateau D'Usee

Chapel near "Sleeping Beauty Castle"

We arrived at the Chateau de Chenonceaux after crossing the River Cher. Wow. Truly, it was a stunning structure, but also incredible grounds surrounding it! It is easy to imagine people riding horses in dress from the 1500's while walking the grounds. Built in 1513, this Chateau housed the famed Catherine de Medici, wife of Henry II. Nearly every room had fresh flowers and the views from the second floor balcony were extraordinary. 

Chateau de Chenonceaux

Michael Boswell, Director of Madrigals

After a couple of hours, we headed to the next hotel in Saint Pierre-des-Corps in Tours. We had our earliest dinner in days at 9:00 p.m.! Hopefully a good night's sleep ahead will prepare us for our full day tomorrow with the Sisters of Providence in Ruille-Sur-Le-Loir!

Etienne, tour director at wine tasting

Students enjoying the beautiful day in France

May 11, 2012

The day started cloudy, but the sun eventually came through the clouds as we arrived at Pointe de l'Arcouest which had spectacular coastal views. As we came over a hill and saw the water, everyone gasped! We had a quick stop where everyone looked for shells or visited a local shop.

Collecting shells at Pointe de l'Arcouest

Pointe de l'Arcouest

We traveled to the port of Paimpol for lunch and it was one of the most quaint towns we have encountered so far on the trip. We passed the Alum Tour bus in this town and we all waved from our respective buses. Many stopped for crepes (for which they are known!) and the servings were quite large! Most shops were closed for lunch (unlike the United States where workers may not get even an hour for lunch, here they appear to take 2 hours and shut down for lunch), but some found a Boulanger to buy 'chocolat' while others found souvenirs elsewhere.

crepe with 'bacon', cheese and egg

From Paimpol, we stopped at the Plage du Moulin, a beach near Etables-Sur-Mer (Saint Mother Guerin's birthplace), where Saint Mother Guerin is thought to have walked often. This was a favorite spot and many wished we could stay much longer. Thousands of seashells in great condition were all over the beach, the view was beautiful, and many reflected on the fact that in her writing, Saint Mother Guerin was grieved to leave her beautiful France and arrive in Indiana in the beginning. We now feel we have a better understanding of why leaving this place was so difficult for her. 

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Plage du Moulin where Mother Guerin walked

Such an amazing day...we returned to Etables-Sur-Mer and joined the Alum Tour participants, walking to the birthplace/house site of Saint Mother Guerin in the afternoon. The street was so quaint and beautiful, yet simple. We arrived at the gates and as we walked through, there was a palpable feeling among the group. It was a strong sense of being "on the other side" of the stories we all have heard about Saint Mother Guerin since our own arrival to Saint Mary-of-the-Woods College. There is a structure in place at the site of the house where she once lived, with nearby stable remains. Inside the structure are pictures and various objects. Many were full of emotion, particularly the students, as they stood in a circle holding hands/arms and sang "The Ring Song". The Sisters of Providence in attendance, along with many of us, felt very moved at hearing this song in this place at that moment. It was as if time and place did not exist and we were able to all connect to the legacy which brought us all together. 

Michael Boswell and students inside structure at Mother Guerin's house site

Singing the Ring Song inside the structure

Emotions running high following Ring Song

stable ruins 

Following the visit to Saint Mother Guerin's house site, everyone prepared for the Mass (and concert which followed) at Church of Saint John the Baptist in Etables-Sur-Mer. The Bishop from the district arrived to perform the service, which we have come to understand, is rare. He took time during the service to speak in both English and French, conveying to everyone that in our presence there, along with the Sisters of Providence and President Dottie King, we all come together to show the love of God. Immediately after the Mass in which the choir sang, a concert with the Madrigals took place. It was a wonderful place to sing and it held a large audience of appreciative individuals. Following the singing of "La Providence", the audience stood and applauded for some time. Their faces as they listened to the french words are difficult to describe. The Bishop and other church officials, as well as President Dottie King and Sisters of Providence, congratulated the choir and pictures were taken by those in the congregation and local news (for which Michael Boswell was interviewed). A reception followed at a nearby location with singing, laughing, talking, food and drink. The entire bus ride back was full of energy and excitement from a well-received performance and the emotion of the day.

Church of Saint John the Baptist (mass and concert location) in Etables-Sur-Mer

Tomorrow we head to the Loire Valley, often called the "Garden of France" and will visit Chateau d'Usse, often referred to as the original Sleeping Beauty castle.